Two weeks from now, I’ll be in Lord of the Rings. Well, basically. Dunedin, New Zealand, where I’ll be studying for five months, is just a few hours away from the cerulean bays of Nelson, where Strider hid Frodo and the hobbits from Black Riders, and even closer to Mt. Cardrona, where you can stand on the icy summit and see a full panorama of Middle-earth. And just a ferry ride away are the verdant rolling hills of The Shire, or Hobbiton.
Like Frodo, I’ll be embarking on a quest from my own version of the Shire: the lush, comfortable dairy farming landscape of Wisconsin. And like Frodo followed in Bilbo’s footsteps, I’ll be following in the footsteps of my grandparents, Hans and Edda Bilger, who left the midwest for New Zealand in the 90’s to work at a university.
But I’ll be starting fresh on my own adventure. I’m excited to go on outdoor adventures-- hiking and backpacking trips, kayaking trips, biking, rock climbing, camping-- but a little bit nervous about the cold winter temperatures. Like Frodo, I’ll be setting off for the southern hemisphere with three friends from school. We probably won’t be having adventures as fantastical and exciting as the Fellowship did, but we can try our best.
You don’t need to be part of the Fellowship to go on an adventurous backpacking trip in New Zealand, and luckily there are a plethora of options. The best of them are grouped under the label “Great Walks of New Zealand.” There are nine of them, including the Milford Track and Routeburn Track, two relatively well-known hikes. One of my main goals for the semester (along with doing well in school!) is to do as many Great Walks as I can in the five months I have. The walks are located throughout the north and south islands, from Tongariro Crossing on the North Island all the way down to Stewart Island, off of New Zealand’s southern tip.
I’m excited for scenery like this:
Most of the walks are in New Zealand’s national parks and are maintained by the government’s Department of Conservation. Like treks in the Alps, it’s possible to stay in government-maintained huts along the trail. But unlike in the Alps, hiking around New Zealand will let you see active volcanoes and lava on the Tongariro Northern Circuit; rainforests and wetlands on the Lake Waikaremoana Walk; beaches and ocean views on the Abel Tasman Coast Track; and dramatic fjords and alpine vistas on the Milford Track, which is considered to be one of the best hikes in the world. All of those are 4 days long, so not quite as extensive as Bilbo’s six month trek to Lonely Mountain, but enough to fully immerse yourself in New Zealand’s wild landscape.
I’m planning on a Lord of the Rings marathon to prepare for my adventure-- maybe Bilbo or Frodo can give me some insight on packing. I’ll have to scour my closet for the right robes and boots that will keep me warm in the harsh South Island winter to come. Then there’s the gear-- where will I get my trusty steed and magic ring?
Realistically, though, packing the right clothes and gear will be complicated; you have to keep warm while keeping luggage under fifty pounds. I’ll need school supplies, warm clothes, and the essentials for a good backpacking adventure. Although I arrive in the dead of New Zealand’s summer, temperatures apparently don’t exceed about 70 degrees! New Zealand’s real winter, which starts around May, averages around or below freezing. Wisconsin’s winters drop below zero all the time, but there’s a difference-- we have heating inside, and my bedroom rests at a comfortable 65 degrees even when it’s a blizzard outside. With no heat in the Uni Flats, I’m a little nervous about frigid nights. I’ve been told that a hot water bottle is essential-- one you can carry around while doing homework inside and sleep with at night. I’m also planning on taking a down jacket and plenty of thermals, a good compressible sleeping bag with a silk liner, a three-season, two person tent, and a solid pair of high-top hiking boots.
For now, I have two weeks at home to stare out of the window at Wisconsin's quiet, snowy winter landscape, pack, and plan adventures.