Arcadia England

By Isabel Hughey

St. John Restaurant appeared to be a typical British restaurant with a focus on meat dishes- but a quick look at the menu will change your mind instantly. Located right around the corner from Farringdon St. John Restaurant is a local place that uses cheap cuts of meat and ingredients, such as brains and sweetbreads, and transforms them into award winning dishes. It is a crisp, clean white building with a modest exterior. However, upon entering, the atmosphere completely changed. There were waiters dressed in white from head to toe whisking dishes around and glasses of wine. As they led me to my table, they politely took my coat and offered me a drink. The service remained incomparable throughout my lunch.

I decided to take a chance and order the bone marrow. Four bones on a plate accompanied by a thin, tiny spoon arrived at my table. It was simply plated with nothing special trying to hide the fact that I essentially ordered bones. I nervously picked up the first bone, grabbed my unique spoon, and began my meal. The marrow effortlessly came out of the bone like butter. This “butter” though is far more rich and silky than a normal tub of cream. The chef included three pieces of sourdough bread that perfectly accompanied the marrow. It is like spreading jam on toast, but the taste is far superior.

While the bone marrow was the star of the plate, the parsley salad on the side commanded its own attention and ended up stealing the show. Parsley, onions, and lemon juice. Sounds simple. However, the onions were skillfully sliced into thin ringlets that managed to not overpower the small salad. The parsley added a kick that the lemon juice enhanced. By the third bone, I realized the true potential of this dish. First, the sourdough toast. Next, the marrow. Lastly, sprinkle the parsley salad over the top. Incredible. This dish alone is worth a trip to London.

I decided to end my meal with a dessert from the bakery shop located just outside of the restaurant. A crème cake with poached pear and a scoop of homemade vanilla bean ice cream. A combination that is a recipe for success. However, St. John’s put a twist on an otherwise classic dessert that I found to be a major highlight of my lunch. They poached the peach in a cinnamon bourbon sauce that added a spice to the crème cake that I never experienced before. Not only is St John’s innovative and creative, but also the execution is flawless from appetizers to desserts.

The head chef of St. John’s invented the “nose to tail” style of eating. No piece of meat is left behind. It is no surprise that he has attracted attention from some of the greatest chefs and travel writers, including Anthony Bourdain. While St. John’s may be a vegetarian’s nightmare, it is a haven for carnivores like myself.