Arcadia England

In her latest post, Ashley Blaes takes us on a Reading Week trip to Ireland.

Dia Duit Ó Dublin (Hello from Dublin)! Last semester over reading week I had the chance to go to Edinburgh, Scotland—see my blog post on great places to visit if you’re headed there for your own reading week adventure! This time around, I embarked on a trip to Dublin, Ireland for the second semester reading week. Having Irish-American heritage, I had always wanted to visit the Emerald Isle, as it is so named for its verdant countryside resulting from the constant rainy weather. I had done Irish dancing as a child and grew up listening to Gaelic inspired music from Riverdance.

Last semester I took two modules focused on Irish literature and historical literary and political figures from cities like Dublin. I figured there was no better time to explore Ireland than the present moment while I live in the UK just one flight across the Irish Sea. So, the day after storm Eunice blew through the British Isles, I caught a flight to Dublin and spent a few days exploring Ireland’s capital with some day trips thrown into the mix. Here’s a little round-up of some Dublin-centered activities and landmarks I experienced that you might also want to see if you find yourself in Ireland’s charming capitol city.

[NOTE: Ireland uses a different currency than in England, Wales, and Scotland. If you’re travelling to Ireland from the UK make sure you have Euros on you! Power outlets should still be with UK plugs, but just in case, pack a European adapter to charge your devices too.]

Transportation note: Dublin is a much smaller city than London, for example. It’s easy and encouraged to walk everywhere as much as you can and no place you’ll visit will be further than a 30-minute walk if you’re staying in the city centre. If you need to use the bus or trams, be advised that it is not as easy to use contactless or card payments on Dublin buses like it is for the TfL in London! Make sure you have some Euros or cents on you for this reason.

Dublin Castle: I stayed in Christchurch Place, just around the corner from this historic castle. Built in the 13^th century by Viking settlers, Dublin Castle was historically the seat of British government administration. Once Irish independence was achieved in 1922, the castle became an important seat of Irish government as it still is today, 100 years later. Today, it is a tourist attraction which boasts grand halls and views of an attached gothic cathedral. Entry to the State Apartments must be booked in advance and self-guided tickets are €6 for students.

Temple Bar: A very touristy district located on the south bank next to the River Liffey. Temple Bar also can refer to the famous pub of the same name where you can grab a pint and listen to live Irish music being performed at most evening hours. While Temple Bar may be one of the most famous—and therefore crowded—pubs in the city, there are many other options for taverns and pubs just around the corner down the cobble stone streets. If you fancy some shopping, there are boutique and vintage stores in the area too.

Dame Street: One of the largest thoroughfares in the city, Dame Street starts in Christchurch and runs to the gates of Trinity College Dublin. Here you can find pubs, shops of all kinds, convenience stores, cafes, and more. It leads to O’Connell Street which is the most famous thoroughfare in Dublin.

Ha’Penny Bridge: 24 bridges cross the River Liffey in Dublin city. One of the most central and recognizable bridges connecting the north and south banks is the Ha’Penny Bridge. Built in 1816, the toll to cross originally cost a half penny (hence the name) but today, the pedestrian bridge is free to cross.

Guinness Storehouse/Gravity Bar: Located at St. James’s Gate, the Guinness Storehouse is the site of the original and largest Guinness brewery in the world. Comprised of 7 floors, the Storehouse takes visitors through 250 years of Guinness history and advertising. Some attractions include learning about the story of Arthur Guinness (and his 9,000-year lease he signed for the brewery!!!), a free tasting experience, learning how to pour your own pint at the Guinness Academy (must be booked with a special ticket), and having a free pint—included in the price of a general admission ticket—at the Gravity Bar which boasts 360-degree views over the city. You can even have a picture of your own face printed on the foam of your pint! Since opening to the public in 2000, the brewery has had over 20 million visitors worldwide. This is not an experience to be missed if you’re interested in the history and process of making Ireland’s most famous beer. Tickets must be booked on the Guinness Storehouse website in advance. Remember to drink responsibly!

Trinity College Dublin and the Book of Kells/Long Reading Room: If you’re a fan of beautiful books like I am (although I’m obligated to since I study English lit), then you’ll love visiting the long reading room of Trinity College Dublin. Founded in 1592, TCD is Ireland’s oldest university. You may recognize it from the mini-series Normal People, adapted from Irish author Sally Rooney’s novel by the same name, where much of the show was filmed. Your ticket will include entrance to the Book of Kells exhibition, detailing the history of Ireland’s most famous work of literature, made some time around 800 AD by Irish monks. You’ll then make your way in the Long Reading Room: one of the dreamiest libraries full of old tomes, grand mahogany shelves and ladders, marble statues, and an arching roof overhead. In the aisles you’ll see the medieval Brian Boru Harp which is the symbol of Ireland (and also the logo for Guinness). On your way out, visit the TCD gift shop where you’ll find Trinity College merch as well as Irish heritage gifts such as Claddagh rings and Celtic knot trinkets.

The Little Museum of Dublin: If you find you’re in the mood for an easy tourist attraction that’s quick to get through but highly informative, then the Little Museum is for you! Located on the corner of Dawson Street just north of St. Stephen’s Green, the Museum is compacted into three floors of a Georgian townhouse. In this house you’ll find historical engravings of the city, artefacts from Irish authors and politicians, learn about the Viking settlers from centuries past, and in the stair wells, be taken through the decades of conflict and sacrifice as Ireland fought for independence in the 20th century. There is one room entirely dedicated to U2 if you’re a fan of their music! It takes roughly an hour to get through the museum on your own. All-day tickets cost €15/person. The guided tour is €8 for students but only lasts a half hour. Extras like the Green Mile walking tour, Scavenger hunt in the Green, or the Women’s History of Ireland can also be purchased on the website.

St. Stephen’s Green: Opened to the public in 1880, the Green is a 22-acre garden square and park located in the city centre. It’s a lovely place to take a stroll by the ponds and fountains and observe the seagulls and ducks which make the park their home. Historically, the Easter Rising of 1916 in the fight for Irish independence saw the park transformed into trenches and reinforced embattlements as a defensive post in the rebellion. Today, you can find signs around the park which detail the events of the Rising and how the park was used in the fighting, as well as some of the figures involved in the rebellion.

Merrion Square: Similar to St. Stephen’s Green, Merrion Square is a public green space in the city centre opened in the Georgian period. On the northwest corner of the park you can find a statue of Oscar Wilde—one of the most famous Irish poets in literature— lounging on a rock. Around the square are museums as well as historical plaques noting where famous authors like W.B. Yeats and Daniel O’Connell once lived.

National Gallery of Ireland: If you’re in the mood for a more artistic flair, head over the National Gallery for free exhibits of work from Irish artists and creatives from all over the globe. One of my favourite pieces happened to be on the first floor in the first room: ‘The Sunshade’ by William John Leech—a painting which can be described as nothing other than verdant and luminous. Located right around the corner from Merrion Square, this is a great free option to explore if you’re in the area.

Leo Burdock’s Chippy: Recommended to me by my taxi driver on the way from the airport, Leo Burdock’s is a staple of Dublin pub food. If you’re on a night out pop into a Leo Burdock’s and ask for the fish and chips with the ‘bits’ included.

Aran Sweater Market: If you’re looking for a quintessential Irish gift for your friends or family back home (or even for yourself), an Aran sweater is a staple of Irish fashion and culture. Traditionally hand-knitted for centuries by Irish fisherman in the blustery Aran Isles located in the Atlantic, Aran sweaters are heavy woolen knits made with intricate cabling patterns. Every stitch and unique design has a specific meaning such as luck, nature, or family, and you can even find Arans that are unique to specific Irish clans and their own heritage.

Day trips from Dublin:

Howth: Howth is a quaint little fishing village located on the Howth Peninsula, 30 minutes north of the city by train. Once you arrive, you’ll spot the marina and the pier and further along, find walking trails that will take you around the peninsula and the craggy hills the town is built on. Right across the street from the train station is Howth Market, open on weekends and bank holidays. As it is a fishing village, there are plenty of pubs to pop into if you fancy some fish and chips. It’s a quick day trip from Dublin which is perfect for lovers of the sea.

Glendalough Mountains: Located in Glendalough valley in County Wicklow, Wicklow Mountains National Park boasts picturesque views of sheep grazing in the verdant hills, clear blue water in the upper and lower lakes, and the rustic stone tower of the Monastic City and graveyard. To start your day trip, catch the Glendalough bus (St. Kevin’s bus service) from St. Stephen’s Green North stop and ride for an hour and a half south west where the bus terminates at the park’s visitor centre. A single return ticket costs about €20. You’ll have a choice of walking trails which vary in length and time, difficulty, and terrain. An average trail walk will take around 2 hours so bring good walking shoes, a snack and some water! On the particular day I went, barring a few intermittent showers, the weather held out and I was lucky enough to see a dazzling rainbow. The lake looking towards the valley in the distance is not to be missed. If you want to get out of the city and experience nature (trees and waterfalls galore) for a few hours, a visit to Glendalough is for you.

With that, my trip recommendations have reached an end. Dublin overall is small enough to see in just a couple of days and there were many more places in Ireland I would have loved to have visited. If you ever visit, I hope this gave you a few ideas of things to see and do in the heart of Ireland. Slán (goodbye) for now! Cheers xx