Surfboard at my hip, snug in my wetsuit, I’m so cool, looking like a bonafide surfer as I stop to attach my leg rope to my ankle.
I enter the water, and immediately am whacked in the face by an oncoming wave. My hair is everywhere, I snort out salty spray that leaves tracings all down by face and my board almost knocked me out as it bounced high in the air with the sudden impact.
Not so cool now... I push on through, just past the breakers where the water is calm. Face wiped, hair slicked back and all face is restored. Until I aim to perch on my board and flop about in the water like a walrus trying to do a pirouette. This whole cool calm and collected thing is not really working for me today.
I watch the set of waves rolling in. I’ve got this, I say to myself: I nailed the moves when practising on the sand. The swell rises closer to me, I can see where the wave will break and position myself ready to launch. As I catch the wave I attempt the Pop Up- what was so graceful on shore is altogether entirely different when there is moving water at play. I nose dive, and tumble into the wash. The board flies in the air, my hair is stamped to my face and the snot is again on my cheeks. Steph Gilmore eat your heart out, I am an aqua gazelle.
Hours later, I am still in the water. My hair is still all over the place; I’ve swallowed a good gallon of salt water, and am sore and bruised from handling the board. Oh, and did I mention the smile on my face that radiates from ear to ear, and the feeling of bliss I hold right now?
This is awesome.
I am rocking this in all shades of uncoordinated glory, and loving every minute. :)